SIGNS OF ILLNESS IN BIRDS

Diseases

SIGNS OF ILLNESS IN BIRDS

If you have any concerns Please contact your AVIAN VET

Inactivity
Eyes closed most of the time
Feathers fluffed all of the time
Droopy wings
Low, almost horizontal posture on perch
Talking and singing stops
Eating stops
Noisy breathing
Frequent sneezing
Discharge from the nares
Tail bobbing with each breath
Perching with neck extended and beak grasping wire of cage (this posture keeps passages straight to ease breathing)
Vomiting
Siled or pasted vent
Feathers lost and not replaced
Bleeding
Weight loss
Swelling
Changes in water consumption
Changes in routine and habits
Change in droppings
Change in activity level
Decrease in preening
Frequent flicking of head
Remaining on bottom of Cage
Self mutilation
Regression

SITUATIONS REQUIRING IMMEDIATE VET ATTENTION

If you have any concerns Please contact your AVIAN VET

Gasping for breath
Voice changes
Bleeding that you can't stop - heavy bleeding
Convulsions
Ingestion of TOXIC material
Ingestion of a sharp or foreign object
Constriction of legs, feet or toes that is causing swelling below the constriction
Moderate to sever dehydration

Shock - very sleepy - unresponsive - cool or cold extremities

News release: We herd today that they think they may have a vaccine forBeak and Feather Disease

Here is the story:

Diseases

Any body who operates a rescue, needs to make sure all birds coming in seeing an avian vet. If they are not a vet, they should not make the decision as to what parrot gets to see the vet. Many avian vets give rescues discounts. Rescues that say it is impossible to take each and every bird coming in to the vet, need to believe why they rescue in the first place. With all the diseases that are out there. Most airborne, we at Freedom Flights know it is our responsibly to make sure if we adopt out a bird, that the bird is checked by the avian vet.

Below our avian vet could test for these diseases if he felt it needed to be done. This not only protects the parrots, but if they get fostered out to a home with other birds, people will know that we have taken all the necessary steps possible.

Chlamydia

Description

Chlamydia psittaci - also referred to as Psittacosis, Parrot Fever or chlamydiosis. The word Psittacosis comes from the Greek word Psittakos, meaning parrot. Chlamydia are gram negative, spherical, (0.4-0.6 micron diameter), intracellular parasites that people sometimes referred to as "energy parasites" because they use ATP (a crucial energy containing metabolite) produced by the host cell, hence, the term "energy parasites.
Incubation periods in caged birds vary from days to weeks and longer. Most commonly this period is approximately 3 to 10 days. Latent infections are common and active disease may occur several years after exposure. The incubation period of this disease is however difficult to assess due to these chronically infected birds that develop persistent, asymptomatic infections.

In birds, C. psittaci may manifest itself as an upper respiratory infection with nasal, and or ocular discharge, diarrhea, or a combination of all three. In some cases, birds may be infected but show no signs. These cases are of concern because these birds may become carriers and shed the organism.
A major concern with C. psittaci is the zoonotic potential of the organism. A zoonotic disease is an infection which can be transmitted from animals to humans. C. psittaci is also one of the major causes of infectious abortion in sheep and cattle.
*C. psittaci is related to Chlamydia trachomatis, the most common human STD, and Chlamydia pneumonia, a cause of human pneumonia. Chlamydia pneumonia is also being investigated as possibly being associated with cardiovascular disease in humans.

Transmission
Transmission of this organism from one host to another is primarily through the air. The bacteria is shed from an infected bird in the nasal and or ocular secretions, fecal material, and feather dust. The organism remains remarkably stable outside the host body and dries as a dusty substance. This dust or aerosol contaminates the air that is then inhaled by another possible host. Susceptibility as well as the amount of contamination determine whether or not the new host becomes infected with the disease. Vertical transmission through the egg has been shown in domesticated ducks.

The disease has a greater chance of spreading in overcrowded conditions, stale air environments, nest-boxes, and brooders. Pet shops, bird marts, and quarantine stations are also high risk areas.

*Transmission of the Chlamydial organism from birds to humans has been confirmed in a number of cases. Although psittacosis infection in humans is rare it is potentially dangerous for persons who are sick, elderly, immunosuppressed (e.g., HIV patients) or pregnant. These people should consult their doctor for more information concerning Chlamydia psittaci.

Symptoms
In young birds clinical sings can include rough plumage, low body temperature, tremor, lethargy, conjunctivitis, dyspnea, emaciation, sinusitis, yellow to greenish droppings or grayish watery droppings may also be displayed. Adult birds may develop symptoms such as tremors, lethargy, ruffled feathers, progressive weight loss, greenish diarrhea, occasional conjunctivitis, and high levels of urates in droppings. Birds infected with Chlamydia may develop one or several of these symptoms as the disease progresses.
Clinical changes associated with a Chlamydia infection include WBC elevated 2-3 times, Hct decreased 25-40%, SGOT elevated at least 2-3 times the normal levels, LDH elevated by at least 20%, and AST elevated by at least 2-3 times the normal limit. Other, more slight changes can occur in blood hematology and chemistry.

*In humans: abrupt onset of fever, chills, headache, loss of appetite, shortness of breath, malaise, myalgia, and conjunctivitis can occur as a result of a Chlamydia infection.

Prevention
Preventing the organism from entering your facility is the best method of prevention. Test and quarantine all new birds before entering them in your aviary; avoid bird marts and bird fares where the disease can spread. Commonsense hygiene includes the removal of fecal material, and quality air circulation,

Treatment
Most treatments involve the use of tetracycline and its derivatives such as Vibramycin, Doxycycline, Oxytetracycline. The antibiotic can be given by intravenous or intramuscular injections. Antibiotics can also be given orally or mixed with palatable food. Treatment periods generally last about 45 days varying slightly depending on the treatment. *Calcium should be withheld because tetracycline binds to calcium. Citric acid in the bird's drinking water can increase the levels of antibiotics in the blood.

In humans tetracycline and its derivatives are generally an effective treatment for Chlamydia.

Diagnosis
Fecal analysis, blood analysis, immunoflourescent testing, as well as PCR and nested PCR testing are excellent tool to help determine a Chlamydial infection.

Sample
When testing individual birds, a whole blood sample is recommended in conjunction with a cloacal and/or throat swab when possible. If the sample tests positive the bird should be placed in quarantine and treatment should be begun immediately.

Postmortem swabs or samples of liver, spleen, or kidney tissue in a sterile container may also be submitted.

Environmental testing using swabs of aviaries, countertops, fans, air-filters, nest-boxes, etc. is extremely effective in determining the presence of Chlamydia psittaci DNA in the environment.

Handling
Prior to shipping samples should be stored at 4 C. (refrigerator). Samples must be shipped in a padded envelope or box. Samples may be sent by regular mail, but overnight is recommended.

Pacheco's

Description
Pacheco's disease - This disease is caused by a number of closely related members of the herpesviridae. Herpesviruses are 120 to 220 nm in diameter and their genome has a double stranded DNA structure. Replication of the virus occurs in the nucleus of a cell. These viruses primarily infect lymphatic tissue (B or T cells), skin (epithelial cells) and nerve cells.
PDV was first recognized in Brazil where aviculturalists began seeing birds dying only a few days after becoming ill. The virus can start shedding in the feces and nasal discharge of an infected bird in as little as 3-7 days after infection. Considered highly contagious , PDV can spread rapidly through an aviary. Often the first sign that the disease is present is when a new bird is introduced to an aviary and healthy birds begin mysteriously dying. Pacheco's disease is often fatal and affects psittacines of all ages. New World psittacines seem to be more susceptible to the disease than Old World psittacines.

Transmission
Transmission of PDV is generally through infected feces and nasal discharge. PDV remains remarkably stable outside the host body as a dust or aerosol. This dust or aerosol contaminates the air that is then inhaled by another possible host. Contaminated surfaces, food, and drinking water may also contribute to the spread of the disease.
Birds can be asymptomatic carriers of Pacheco's virus. Some believe that any bird that has survived an outbreak of the disease should be considered as a possible carrier. PDV can be reactivated when the bird is under stress such as during breeding, loss of mate, or change and environmental changes. Once it is reactivated the virus is shed in large numbers in the feces of the infected bird.

Symptoms
Symptoms include lethargy, diarrhea, ruffled feathers, sinusitis, anorexia, conjunctivitis, and tremors in the neck, wing and legs.
Fecal material may become discolored with urates becoming green indicating possible liver damage has occurred. Birds generally die from massive liver necrosis characterized by an enlarged liver, spleen and kidneys. However, some birds die suddenly with no specific or observable symptoms.
Seemingly healthy birds often die quickly from Pacheco's disease. Generally stress associated with relocation, breeding, loss of mate or climate changes can activate the virus and result in activation of the disease and it's symptoms as well as shedding large numbers of the virus in the feces.

Prevention
Isolate all birds shedding PDV. Disinfect all contaminated surfaces with an oxidizer such as chlorine bleach (as Pacheco's virus is resistant to many disinfectants, alcohol does not work because it is not an oxidizer). It is also important to replace all air filters and clean vents and fan blades.
A killed virus vaccine is available and can be given in a series of two injections, 4 weeks apart (yearly booster shots are required). Some species, such as cockatoos and Eclectus parrots, have had vaccination reactions such as granulomas and paralysis. Additionally, the vaccine may not protect against all forms of PDV. Only birds with high risk of exposure, such as pet store birds, should be vaccinated.

Quarantine all new birds for 30-60 days and use PCR testing to determine whether or not birds are infected. Isolate birds who have been exposed to Pacheco's virus.

Treatment
Acyclovir is effective against some strains of Pacheco's but may cause kidney damage. Acyclovir works best when treatment is started before symptoms appear.

Diagnosis
PCR and sequence testing for specific PDV DNA. Histopathology.

Sample
In live birds please submit both a blood sample and a cloacal swab sample for each bird.
The Virus can be isolated from tissue samples of the liver, spleen or kidney submitted in a sterile container.
Environmental testing using swabs of aviaries, countertops, fans,
air-filters, nest-boxes, etc. is extremely effective when in determining the presence of Pacheco's virus DNA in the environment.

Handling
Prior to shipping samples should be stored at 4 C. (refrigerator). Samples must be shipped in a padded envelope or box. Samples may be sent by regular mail, but overnight is recommended.

Beak and Feather

Description
Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease - The virus causing this disease is a member of the Circoviridae. The molecular structure of the genome of the virus is roughly a 2,000 base, circular, single stranded DNA. PBFD virus has a strong resemblance to Porcine Circovirus as well as to a number of plant viruses such as the Banana Bungy virus.

The disease is thought to be specific for psittacines and all psittacine species should be considered susceptible. Parrots known to be particularly affected by PBFD include, but are not limited to, Cockatoos, Macaws African Grey Parrots, Ringneck parakeets, Eclectus Parrots, Lovebirds.

Causes fatal infections, primarily in young birds. Older birds may overcome the disease with few lasting affects. Some believe that these surviving birds become carriers able to shed the disease at a later date. Others believe that a percentage of birds are able to eradicate the disease from their system leaving them with a natural immunity that can be passed on to their offspring.
The virus that causes PBFD can also affect the liver, brain, and immune system causing diminished resistance to infections. Consequently premature death usually occurs from these secondary bacterial, fungal, parasitic, or viral infections.

Transmission
, long after the infected bird is gone.Transmission of the virus from one individual to another is primarily through direct contact, inhalation or ingestion of aerosols, crop-feeding, infected fecal material, and feather dust. The virus can also be transmitted via contaminated surfaces such as bird carriers, feeding formula, utensils, food dishes, clothing, and nesting materials. The viral particles, if not destroyed can remain viable in the environment for months

Symptoms
Symptoms include irreversible loss of feathers, shedding of developing feathers, development of abnormal feathers, new pinched feathers, and loss of powder down. Other possible symptoms include overgrown or abnormal beak, symmetrical lesions on the beak and occasionally nails.
Immunosuppression, rapid weight loss, and depression are also possible in later stages of the disease.
Secondary viral, fungal, bacterial or parasitic infections often occurs as a result of diminished immunity caused by a PBFD viral infection. Additional symptoms not mentioned above including elevated white cell counts are generally due to secondary infections and may not be directly related to PBFD virus infections.

Prevention
Strict isolation of all diseased birds to halt the the spread of the disease. DNA testing of all birds of susceptible species to rule out latent infection. DNA testing of aviary equipment and environment to test for possible contamination.

Treatment
No known treatment. Experimental vaccines are being developed.

Diagnosis
Skin biopsy, surgical biopsy of feather and shaft, or PCR testing of blood, swab, and feather samples.

PBFD should be considered in any bird suffering from abnormal feather loss or development. A biopsy of the abnormal feathers including the calimus (shaft) of the feather can be examined for signs of virus. However, since the PBFD virus does not affect all feathers simultaneously this method of evaluating a sample may have a high degree of error. Additionally, birds with PBFD can have normal feathers and the PCR test is the most effective method available for detecting the virus in birds before feather lesions develop.

Some birds infected with the virus, test positive, but never show clinical signs. Other birds which test positive may develop an immune response sufficient enough to fight off the infection and test negative after 30-90 days. Therefore, it is recommended to re-test all PBFD positive birds 60-90 days after the initial testing was completed. If the second sample remains positive, the bird should be considered permanently infected and can be expected to show clinical symptoms of the disease.

Sample
To test an individual bird a whole blood sample is recommended in conjunction with a cloacal swab or feathers (especially abnormal or suspicious-looking feathers) when possible. If the sample tests
positive the bird should be placed in quarantine and re-tested after 4-6 weeks. If the bird tests negative the second time a third test after 4-6 weeks is recommended.

Post-mortem samples include liver, spleen, kidney, feather samples in a sterile container; postmortem swabs may also be submitted.

Environmental testing using swabs of aviaries, countertops, fans, air-filters, nest-boxes, etc. is extremely effective in determining the presence of PBFD DNA in the environment.

*It is recommenced to submit both a whole blood and cloacal swab sample for analysis when possible.

Polyomavirus

Description

Polyomavirus - This virus, also referred to as Budgerigar Fledgling Disease is a member of the papovavirus family. Polyoma virus is a 40-50 nm diameter in size, containing a double-stranded DNA genome of approximately 5000 basepairs.

This pathogen is considered one of the most significant threats to cage birds around the world. This highly infectious disease effects most if not all parrot species. Polyoma seems to be most problematic among neonates (young birds) between the ages 14-56 days. Young birds often die, while adult birds can develop a certain level of immunity. Polyoma is believed to have an incubation period of approximately two weeks or less.

Transmission
he diseTase can spread from one bird to another via feather dust, feces, aerosols and parental feeding of chicks; direct contact or contact with infected environments (incubators, nest boxes)..

Birds that are infected but do not have obvious signs of infection are often responsible for spreading the virus to an aviary or bird store.

Carrier state maybe possible in adult birds.

Symptoms
Swollen abdomen, depression, loss of appetite, anorexia, weight loss, delayed crop emptying, regurgitation, diarrhea, dehydration, feather abnormalities hemorrhages under the skin, dyspnea, polyuria, ataxia, tremors, paralysis, acute death.

Some birds die without any clinical symptoms. Adult birds may die of secondary infection from bacterial, viral, fungal or parasitic pathogen.

Prevention
Isolate all birds shedding the disease. Disinfect all contaminated surfaces with an oxidizer such as chlorine bleach (Polyoma virus is resistant to many disinfectants).
*Alcohol does not work as it is not an oxidizer.

A vaccine is available, however this option may cost as much as $40-60 per bird: additionally booster shots are required each year and the effectiveness of the vaccine in younger birds is in question.

Quarantine all new birds and use nested primer PCR testing to determine whether or not birds are infected.

Treatment
No known treatment at this time.

Diagnosis
Nested primer PCR testing, and sequence analysis of PDV DNA; histopathology.

Sample
When testing individual birds, a whole blood sample is recommend in conjunction with a cloacal swab when possible. If the sample tests positive, then the bird should be placed in quarantine and re-tested in 4-6 weeks. If the bird tests negative the second time, then a third test is recommended.

Post mortem samples of liver, spleen, or kidney tissue in a sterile container, postmortem swabs may also be submitted.

Environmental testing using swabs of aviaries, countertops, fans,
air-filters, nest-boxes etc. is extremely effective in determining the presence of Polyoma DNA in the environment.

It is recommenced to submit both a whole blood and cloacal swab sample for analysis when possible.

Limitations
Vaccination of birds using a killed virus or DNA vaccine prior to testing does not affect the accuracy of a PCR test.

Bird Droppings
What are they supposed to look like?

All bird droppings are made up of three parts: Faeces (feces), the solid, central part which can vary in color depending on the food the bird eats. Urates, the next layer of the ring, which can be cloudy-clear or with shades of white, yellows and greens, again depending on the foods eaten. Urine is the clear liquid, usually outer layer of the ring. Depending on the amount of fruits and fluids the bird eats/drinks, this can be a significant part of the dropping.

Human companions to birds need to learn what’s normal for their bird. When the bird is healthy, acting fine and eating a well balanced diet, there’s a general look to the
droppings that may vary depending on the time of day, but are usually similar looking. If a bird eats beets one day, the droppings may look frighteningly reddish. Sometimes when the bird eats more dark leafy greens (or blueberries), the droppings can assume a nearly black hue.

When a bird is on a largely seed diet, the feces may be any shade of bright green; pelleted diets without added food colorings would produce a dull, brownish-green. If the
bird is eating colored pellets, the droppings may reflect which colors are most often chosen.

True diarrhea is when the feces part of the droppings are not well formed and liquidy. Diarrhea is usually caused by a disease. Polyuria is when there’s more than usual
amounts of the urine and urates (the feces are still well formed).
Polyuria may be caused by viral infections, allergies to foods or even a tumor somewhere. There are just so many possible causes that a vet visit is essential in order to catch things early.

If there’s ever red in the droppings and they have no dietary explanation, blood must be suspected and it’s prudent to make an appointment with an avian vet. If droppings remain abnormal more than 24 hours, please see a vet or have a mobile vet visit your home. It’s far better to have a visit and exam find nothing wrong, than to miss something that with early treatment may insure the bird lives.

Abnormal droppings may be the result of food allergies, poisoning (such as zinc or other heavy metals), parasites, Psittacosis or even stress. A vet should do a physical exam and may include any one or more of the following: Blood tests, gram stains/cultures, x-rays, even oral/crop/tracheal swabs and so on.

(Ref: Dr Alex Rosenwax, Pres. Australian Avian Veterinary Medical
Association (AAVMA) which is a special interest group for avian
veterinarians; UC Davis Veterinary Avian Research; )

Feeding Your Bird
Junk Science vs Real Science

So much information is flooding the net these days about what to feed a companion bird, whether a
budgie/parakeet, cockatiel or marvelous macaw. It’s sometimes difficult to wade through the junk science, old wives tales, well meaning owner advice or just plain dangerous suggestions.
It’s generally recommended that all domesticated birds enjoy a pelleted diet. They
have been continually updated since being introduced to the market years ago and today’s formulas are better than ever.

Supplementing this diet with fresh foods every day is ideal and many owners find they can re-introduce seeds - in limited amounts (perhaps once or twice a week) without the bird refusing the pellets overall. There are three persistent fallacies circulating like urban legends (well, there are a lot more than three, but three I deal with more than others): 1. That birds cannot eat parsley2. Spinach inhibits the absorption of calcium and is harmful to birds3. Pellets are not a good main food.

The science is that 1. Parsley does adversely effect water fowl (ducks, etc) and 2. Spinach does
contain oxylates which, in large amounts, may inhibit some absorption of calcium, however, enough calcium generally gets through to make lists by published avian vets as one of the “top five foods”. 3. Pellets have come a long way from what they started out as years ago.

When it comes to the debate over seeds or
pellets and how much of each to feed?
Avian vets says, (quote) “Pellets are the ideal diet” and “Seeds, if used at all, should never make up more than 10-15% of your bird’s total foods” list. By the way, spinach is in their “recommended foods” list as well. Remember, diet is only part of the needs of our companions. Interaction, proper cage/environment, perches, grooming facilities (including cuttlebone and mineral blocks) as well as ‘toys’ to keep them occupied, challenged, their beak in condition and more is also required.

Always have an avian vet or a facility familiar with bird treatment see your bird to begin with and give a general check up including genetic blood panel to rule out as many diseases as possible (they can also tell you for sure if it’s a boy or a girl!). Once you do this, you’ll also have a doctor you know and who knows your bird - that you can call in case of emergency or when you need advice. There is
nothing more valuable than this when you and your bird are in need!

The Bird Ate WHAT

Most bird owners know it’s important to keep them from access to alcohol, avocado, chocolate, caffeine, excessive sugar and salt, but that doesn’t mean the bird won’t get into these things at some point.

We've had frantic owners with children who shared a chocolate chip cookie with their feathered friend and we've had owners who insist that Birdy has been sharing coffee at
breakfast for years with no problem.In the first case, while chances are the smallest bite of a
piece of milk chocolate by a larger bird won't cause immediate damage, it is something that needs to be followed up. Liver damage may be subtle and take some time to display symptoms. By the time symptoms are seen it is often too late.

In the second scenario, well, same thing. Liver damage and other organ damage may take some time to show symptoms. With health problems escalating from the wrong choices in
our own diet - how can people think sharing this stuff with birds is a good thing?
It would be by far the better choice for us to start eating like birds!

Whole grains, dark leafy vegetables, fruits and legumes. Include the colors orange, yellow , green, plus reds too! Think sweet potatoes/yams, squash, melons, oranges, peas, chard, beets and others. Brown rice, quinoa, whole wheat couscous and natural, whole grain pastas are great choices.Limit fats, especially the kind from animals. Good fats are most plant fats like soy, olive and canola oils. No fried anything!

We're not unreasonable. Now and then we all need a cookie. Opt for homemade, natural fruit cookies or admittedly indulge in all natural, organic vegan oatmeal or other (non-chocolate, non-carob) cookies. We eat most of it, the bird gets a thumbnail size (for a macaw).

A 1/2 teaspoon of natural (again, preferably organic) yogurt without artificial flavorings is also ok, as is about the same amount of low or no sugar added ice cream or frozen yogurt. Remember, no chocolate or chocolate substitutes allowed. Read labels. This is not only essential for the bird, but a pretty good idea for you too. Take a look below for more very good information and options about this subject

Nutrition (Nutritionist for Birds

Nutrition Hot Spot

Screaming? Biting? Your bird hates you?

It's easy to give animals human characteristics. It helps us identify with them. The truth is though that it's pretty insulting to the animal. Animals do not hate. They do not plot against you and they are not mean spirited. When we see actions that remind us of this, it's always due to the animal being afraid, cautious, nervous or wary.In a new home or even in a new spot in an old home; A new cage or even a new toy in an old cage; A new person in the house or an old person with a new look? Things that you, as a human, understand, the animal may perceive as a threat or potential threat.Once you take a look at life from the animal's point of view, it's amazing what you might see and understand.

Remember - especially when it comes to birds - they don't get many second chances in nature. If they mess up even once they become another animal's meal. It makes perfect sense to err on the side of caution.When your bird screams and you react, even if you're red in the face, yelling and flailing your arms in the air, the bird is getting a reward for the scream - your attention. The worst thing you can do to a bird is deny them your attention. So, when there's screaming going on, stop and silence everything. Put the t.v. on mute, put the kids on mute and everybody
freeze, turning your back to the bird or even leaving the room.Sure, this is an effort on your part, but think about it. If it stops the screaming, isn't a few days of effort going to be worth
it? There are no quick solutions, no magic or secret tricks.

Once the bird stops screaming - and your timing needs to be impeccable to catch them during those few seconds as they catch their breath - turn or re enter the room, face them, quietly praise them and interact. The moment they start again, turn your back and hit all those mute buttons again.

A screaming bird is one who also could use a different outlet for this behavior. We've got a Severe macaw that has learned to use bell ringing instead. Admittedly this gets annoying too, but we have to be reasonable, birds are going to make noise.

Keep this in mind and set aside a couple times a day for the bird to be a bird. Usually in the morning and just before going to roost in the evening most birds will chatter and call out to touch base with everyone else in their flock, which under domestic conditions is you and your family. Prepare the neighborhood and remind them that at least it's not loud music, annoying boom-cars, screaming children, barking dogs or fighting spouses (although you want to be careful about what you say and to whom) - this is just a few minutes a couple times a day of a bird exercising their vocal chords.

Another method of curbing the incessant screaming is a simple water bottle set on stream. When the bird begins at the wrong time, firmly say "no" (which will quickly be learned and repeated back to you by most parrots) and squirt at their tail feathers or feet, just once or twice. Always plain, clean water; never - ever at their body or head and do not do this repeatedly. You want it to be a surprise that distracts them from the screaming, not something that terrifies them of the bottle, the water or you!Very shortly you'll find you don't need to squirt at all, just point the bottle in their direction., or in some cases, just aim your finger - it works with ours sometimes.

It's important to remember a water bottle set on stream and not used very often for distraction like this should never be the same bottle used to spritz your bird for cleaning or feather health.
All this will do is stress your bird, confuse them and set you back in your relationship and trust
Some people might employ the "time out" method. I'm not fond of this because many people over-use it and the bird only ends up neglected and developing more behavior or mental problems.

A proper "time out" would be to remove the bird to a quiet room when the screaming gets out of hand. The bird should only be in the quiet room until the very second they stop screaming or between 5-10 minutes (whichever is first). After 5-10 minutes the bird isn't aware of the association anymore and you're just being mean.

Humans are the only animals that are mean on purpose.

Owww! No biting

Hand raised birds are less likely to bite as long as they are consistently handled, but I can assure you that even these gentle babies will test you a few times. It's not that they intend to remove your finger, but they aren't hatched knowing how much a human can tolerate. When you react it may frighten or startle them and their instinct dictates that they hang on for safety, which means they'll bite even harder. Of course it may also be a reaction to a perceived threat - which is you making noises they're not familiar with (all that screaming and yelling).

That's one scenario anyway. There are also going to be times when a bird growing up just decides they don't want your attention at the moment and using their beak is the only way to make you stop.
Some birds have learned this is the only way to control a human and they, by instinct (like so many other animals) want that control. It usually means safety as well.
Birds "beak" other birds of the same species. It's affectionate, it's play and it's sometimes a means to let the other bird know just who's boss.

We've found that it doesn't matter how big the bird is, it's how they use their beak that counts. A little Mini macaw is by far more threatening in our in-house flock than the bigger macaws. The little one strikes like a viper and hangs on like a pitbull. The bigger ones lunge, nip and withdraw. It's a pinch, but it's over fast. The Severe's bite always causes damage though. To avoid this, make sure you get them out for at least two hours a day (ours are out for 7+ hours every
day) and keep the inside of their cage fresh. That is, change the location of food dishes, perches, switch out toys and even move the cage a foot or two in the room.

When a bird starts biting, drop your arm so the bird is below your shoulder level and if necessary shake your arm just enough to distract the bird from biting (these are called 'earthquakes' and should never be severe enough to displace or drop the bird).Move. Quickly walk away from where you are - bird still on arm - perhaps to a different and unfamiliar room.

These are all options that you can do just as fast as reacting to the bite the old fashioned way with yelling, crying and swatting at the bird which is never good, always sets the relationship back and only makes things worse every time.

Never underestimate the power of a good night's sleep

Humans don't usually get enough and look at us! Road raging, passive-aggressive, cranky and moody. At least encourage the bird you share your home with to get enough sleep. It doesn't so much matter when, just that 12 hours be dedicated to quiet, subdued light and inactivity regularly with 12 hours of daylight, interaction, challenges and activity.

These hours need to be consistent - you shouldn't be changing the pattern all the time.
If you end up with an especially aggressive bird or an egg laying female, increasing nighttime hours by addingIf this doesn't work - there is probably something else going on.
Take a closer look at their environment and of course their health.